NEW DELHI: Long before sustainability became the defining language of global fashion, India had already woven its own philosophy into its textiles. Eri Silk, popularly known as Ahimsa Silk or Peace Silk, is one such example. Unlike conventional silk, the silkworm is allowed to complete its natural life cycle before the fibre is collected, creating a fabric that reflects compassion as much as craftsmanship.
For fashion designer Manish Tripathi, Eri Silk is more than a luxury textile. It is a symbol of India’s civilisational values and a testament to the indigenous communities of Assam that have preserved this remarkable tradition for generations. Through his label AntarDESI, Tripathi has worked to bring these handwoven textiles into contemporary fashion while ensuring that the stories of their makers remain at the heart of every garment.
The Government of India, through the Ministry of Textiles and the Central Silk Board, has been actively promoting Eri Silk as a sustainable, cruelty-free fibre with global potential. Tripathi’s work aligns closely with this vision, transforming traditional handlooms into garments that celebrate both heritage and innovation.
“Design in India has never been confined to studios,” says Tripathi. “It lives in our villages, our artisans and our collective cultural memory. Our responsibility as designers is to ensure these traditions continue to thrive in the modern world.”
That philosophy extends to his collaborations with artisan communities across the country. As a lead designer associated with RISA: Timeless Tribal, an initiative of the Ministry of Tribal Affairs and TRIFED, Tripathi has worked alongside Bodo artisans and handloom weavers in Assam, helping position indigenous textiles within the global luxury market while preserving the integrity of traditional craftsmanship.
His commitment to Eri Silk has also shaped some of India’s most significant cultural commissions. The sacred attire designed for Ram Lalla in Ayodhya incorporated Assam’s Eri and Muga silk, while the ceremonial attire created for the Indian contingent at WorldSkills showcased the elegance of Indian handlooms on an international stage.
For Tripathi, these projects share a common purpose. Indian textiles should not remain confined to museums or ceremonial occasions. They deserve to be part of contemporary wardrobes and global conversations on luxury.
This vision continues through his upcoming Rashtra-Vastra initiative, which encourages public representatives and professionals to embrace indigenous handloom textiles in everyday formal wear. By bringing Eri Silk into spaces of governance, diplomacy and public life, Tripathi hopes to demonstrate that India’s traditional crafts are not relics of the past but enduring expressions of a confident, modern nation.
At a time when the fashion industry is rethinking sustainability, Manish Tripathi’s work offers a distinctly Indian perspective. By connecting government initiatives, tribal craftsmanship and contemporary design, he is proving that the future of luxury may well be rooted in the wisdom of communities that have quietly preserved it for centuries.
